Asphalt Cracks Keep Coming Back? These 8 Fillers Stop the Cycle

If your driveway has started growing little black lightning bolts, you are not alone. I have patched my share of asphalt over the years, and the truth is small cracks rarely stay small once water and freeze-thaw cycles get involved.

The choice that trips people up isn’t chemistry, it’s format. Cartridges give you control — you can lay a clean bead exactly where you want it, which is what you want for a handful of cracks or a repair you need to look tidy. Pourable gallons trade that precision for volume, and they come into their own once you’re working across a whole driveway. Neither is the better product in the abstract; they’re answers to different jobs. Which means the best asphalt crack filler for your driveway depends less on the brand on the label than on how much cracking you’re standing in front of. So the picks below are organized exactly that way, starting with the everyday case and working out to the edges.

Best Asphalt Crack Fillers in 2026

Image	Model
	Best Overall Jetcoat Premium Elastomeric (1 Gallon) Editor's Choice Check Price	Check Price
	Most Flexible Sikaflex-410 Sealant Check Price	Check Price
	Longest Lasting PLI-STIX 60 Ft Check Price	Check Price
	Best Budget Red Devil 0637 Check Price	Check Price
	Easiest to Apply Magic Crack Filler Check Price	Check Price
	Best for Cold & Damp Conditions Liquid Rubber Filler Check Price	Check Price
	Best for Hairline & Alligator Cracking Jetcoat Premium Driveway Sealer Check Price	Check Price
	Best for Potholes Aquaphalt 6.0 Check Price	Check Price

Quick Picks

• Most people should buy: Jetcoat Premium Elastomeric, 1 Gallon — cheapest per foot, no tools, cracks up to 3/4″
• Just a few cracks, want the best chemistry: Sikaflex-410
• Want it to outlive you: PLI-STIX (needs a propane torch)
• Hairline cracks or alligator cracking: Jetcoat Premium Driveway Sealer
• It’s a hole, not a crack: Aquaphalt 6.0

1. Jetcoat Premium Elastomeric Asphalt Crack Filler and Sealant, 1 Gallon

This is the boring answer, and it’s the right one for most driveways. An 8-pound gallon jug with a pour spout, filled with a highly rubberized asphalt emulsion modified with plasticizers. Shake it, snip the spout, pour it into the crack slightly above surface level. No gun, no torch, no mixing.

The reason it leads this list is arithmetic. A gallon is 128 fluid ounces — roughly fourteen 9-oz cartridges’ worth of material for a fraction of the price. If you have more than about 40 feet of cracks, every cartridge product below becomes the expensive choice, and it isn’t close.

It also has the widest working range of any pourable here: Jetcoat rates it for cracks up to 3/4 inch wide, which is wider than most cold-pour fillers manage and wider than the Sikaflex-410’s comfortable zone. It works on concrete as well as asphalt, so a driveway that meets a concrete apron doesn’t need two products.

The plasticizers are what set it apart from a basic emulsion. Jetcoat describes the cured material as having a self-healing quality — minor surface scuffs and shrinkage cracks close back up — and specifies good low-temperature durability with no high-temperature tracking. That last part matters more than it sounds: cheap emulsions go soft in August and pick up on tires.

Expect to pour twice. Emulsion fillers are mostly water by volume, and as it evaporates the material settles below grade. Jetcoat says so directly in the instructions and asks for 24 hours between applications. Deep cracks may want a third pass. Plan the job around that rather than being surprised by it.

The listing does not publish an application temperature range or a coverage figure, which is my main complaint about it. For emulsions generally, 50°F and rising with no rain in the 24-hour forecast is the safe rule. On coverage, a gallon at a 1/4″ x 1/4″ bead works out to roughly 300 linear feet on paper; between settling and the second pass, budget 150–250 feet in the real world.

Pros:

• By far the lowest cost per linear foot of anything here
• Handles cracks up to 3/4″ — the widest range of any pourable on this list
• No tools at all — pour spout built into the jug
• Works on concrete as well as asphalt; contains no Prop 65 chemicals
• Skins over in 1–12 hours depending on weather

Cons:

• Settles as it cures — a second pour 24 hours later is required, not optional
• Manufacturer publishes no coverage figure or application temperature range
• Emulsion chemistry: a multi-year maintenance product, not a permanent repair

2. Sika Sikaflex-410 Self-Leveling Asphalt Sealant

If you have a handful of cracks and you want the best chemistry money can buy for them, this is it. Sikaflex-410 is a one-component hybrid sealant with a movement capability of ±25% — meaning it stretches and compresses a quarter of the joint width without tearing. Asphalt moves constantly, and a rigid filler just cracks out. This doesn’t.

Read the spec sheet before you buy, though, because it’s narrower than the Amazon listing suggests. Sika’s own Product Data Sheet gives a typical minimum width of 1/4 inch and a typical maximum width of 1 inch, with sealant depth between 1/4 and 1/2 inch. (Some retail listings quote 1.5 inches — that figure belongs to a different Sika product, Sikaflex+ Self Leveling Sealant, not the 410.) Below 1/4 inch there’s nothing for it to grip; above 1 inch you need a patch. Deeper than 1/2 inch, backer rod goes in first.

Coverage is precise and published: one 9-oz cartridge yields 21.6 linear feet at a 1/4″ x 1/4″ bead. At a 1/2″ wide, 1/4″ deep joint that drops to 10.8 feet. Application window is 50–100°F ambient and substrate, and the cartridge should be conditioned to 65–75°F before use — cold sealant is stiff sealant, and stiff sealant doesn’t self-level. Skin time is under an hour; allow 7 days before sealcoating or water immersion.

One limitation the marketing doesn’t lead with: Sika explicitly states this is not for sloped surfaces. It’s a self-leveler. On any grade it will run out of the crack and pool at the bottom of the drive.

Pros:

• ±25% movement capability — genuinely elastic, resists aging and UV
• Self-levels with essentially no tooling
• Published, verifiable coverage figures at every joint size
• Standard caulk gun — no mixing, no heat

Cons:

• Manufacturer states NOT FOR SLOPED SURFACES
• Hard 1/4″ minimum width — useless on hairline cracks
• Expensive per foot; 7-day cure before sealcoating

3. PLI-STIX 60 Ft Heat-Applied Crack Filler

This is the same technology used on highways and commercial lots, scaled down so you can apply it with a hand-held propane torch instead of a 200-gallon melter. PLI-STIX is a solid thermoplastic rubber rope that you pack into the crack and melt in place. As it liquefies it flows against the sidewalls and grips them, and once cool you have a seal that expands and contracts with the pavement.

Get the sizing right, because the two versions are easy to confuse. The 60-foot roll is the Small, 1/4-inch rope; the 30-foot roll is the Medium, 1/2-inch rope, which the manufacturer designates for cracks 1/2″ to 1″ wide. If your crack is narrower than the rope, Dalton’s own instructions say to stretch the rope thinner before setting it — leaving it in the sun makes that easier — or splice it with a razor blade.

Application is genuinely simple: leave the plastic wrap on, push the rope into the crack with a screwdriver, then hold direct flame on it for 20 to 30 seconds until it liquefies. It sets in about 20 minutes and can be sealed over after 24 hours. Dalton’s technical data sheet lists a boiling point of 500°F and a Shore A hardness of 50, and states that the product meets ASTM C920-11 for elastomeric joint sealants.

The one instruction people ignore: the technical data sheet specifies an application temperature of 32°F and rising, and explicitly says to avoid applying when temperatures drop below freezing. Supplying your own heat doesn’t exempt you from that — cold pavement pulls heat out of the melt faster than the torch puts it in, and the bond suffers.

Pros:

• Melts into the crack walls — a mechanically stronger bond than any cold-applied product here
• ASTM C920-11 rated; manufacturer backs it with a lifetime guarantee
• Thermoplastic rubber flexes with freeze-thaw cycling
• Sets in 20 minutes, sealable after 24 hours; works on asphalt and concrete

Cons:

• Requires a torch, gloves, and some technique
• Slow on long crack networks — this is on-your-knees work
• Do not apply below 32°F per the manufacturer

4. Red Devil 0637 Textured Asphalt Crack Filler

Most crack fillers dry smooth and shiny. This one doesn’t. The Red Devil has a gritty, asphalt-like texture that blends back into blacktop instead of leaving a glossy stripe that screams “repair.” It goes on a different shade at first and darkens as it dries, which is exactly what you want.

It’s an acrylic formula in a 10.1-oz caulk gun cartridge — straightforward application, nothing to mix. I run a putty knife over the bead to press it in and feather the edges. One nice surprise: it can stick even when the pavement isn’t perfectly dry, which is realistic for anyone who doesn’t live in a desert.

The honest take: this is a maintenance product, not a lifetime fix. Acrylic doesn’t have the elasticity of the Sikaflex or the mechanical bond of the PLI-STIX. In a harsh freeze-thaw climate, plan on re-checking it every year or two. But it’s the cheapest cartridge here, it’s forgiving, and for a handful of cracks that need to look decent by the weekend it does the job.

Pros:

• Textured finish blends into asphalt instead of leaving a gloss stripe
• Tolerates damp pavement better than most options here
• Cheapest cartridge on this list
• Thick enough to tool onto slightly sloped surfaces

Cons:

• Acrylic durability — a yearly maintenance item, not a permanent seal
• Still a cartridge, so still expensive per foot on a full driveway

5. Magic Crack Filler Dry Granular Asphalt Repair

No tubes. No guns. No torch. Pour dry granules into the crack, mist with water, walk away. That’s the whole process, and it’s the reason this product exists. For someone who wants to tidy up a cracked driveway in fifteen minutes without buying anything else, nothing here comes close on simplicity.

Because it’s a dry granule, it also solves a problem the self-levelers can’t: slope. There’s no liquid to run downhill, so it works on angled sections and around the crown of a drive where the Sikaflex and Liquid Rubber would drain out.

Where the math gets tricky is depth. Deep, wide openings eat through material fast. I treat this as a surface-level fix — if the crack is more than an inch deep, fill the bottom with sand or backer rod first, then bring the granules up to the surface where it counts visually. You’re trading long-term elasticity for sheer ease of use. For curb-appeal touch-ups before selling a house or hosting a barbecue, that’s a fair trade.

Note that this is a newer, less-established product than the rest of this list, and the manufacturer publishes less specification data — no rated crack width, no coverage table, no application temperature range. Judge it on convenience, not on documented performance.

Pros:

• Dry application — no tools, no mixing, no mess
• Works on sloped surfaces where self-levelers run out
• Firms up quickly and handles rain once set
• Decent visual blend with most asphalt

Cons:

• Manufacturer publishes little specification data
• Consumption climbs fast on deep or wide cracks
• Less elastic long-term than the Sikaflex or PLI-STIX

6. Liquid Rubber Self-Leveling Asphalt Crack Filler

The temperature spec is what got my attention. Application down to 32°F, and it works in damp conditions. That’s a good deal more forgiving than the Sikaflex-410’s 50°F floor, and more clearly documented than the Jetcoat gallon, which publishes no temperature range at all. If your project window keeps getting rained out, or you live somewhere that “perfect weather” is a two-week stretch in September, this earns its place.

It’s a 100% solids, moisture-cure formula, so there’s no water to evaporate and it doesn’t shrink back after curing — unlike the cold-pour gallon above, which does. The self-leveling action carries it down into the crack instead of bridging the top and leaving a void underneath. Humidity actually speeds the cure rather than slowing it, which is unusual and useful.

This is a sealant, not a patch. For anything past about 1/4 inch Liquid Rubber makes a separate product, and for actual holes you want the Aquaphalt below. It also bonds to concrete, brick, stone, and wood, which is handy where a driveway meets a sidewalk or a foundation wall.

On coverage, treat the marketing number carefully. A 10-oz tube at a 5/16″ bead works out to roughly 15 linear feet by volume — the higher figures you’ll see quoted assume a shallower bead than most cracks will accept. Either way, it’s the most expensive product here per foot, so use it where its weather tolerance actually buys you something.

Pros:

• Applies down to 32°F and on damp pavement
• 100% solids — no shrinkage, no second pass
• Self-levels for a complete fill instead of bridging
• Bonds to concrete, brick, stone, and wood as well as asphalt

Cons:

• Highest cost per linear foot on this list
• Sealant only — not for wide cracks or potholes

7. Jetcoat Premium Driveway Sealer

Every other product on this list needs a crack wide enough to get material into — a quarter inch, give or take. If your driveway is covered in fine surface cracking, or in the interlocking spiderweb pattern that pavement people call alligator cracking, none of them will help you. You physically cannot get a caulk bead or a rubber rope into a one-millimeter split, and chasing hundreds of them individually would take a weekend and look worse than the cracks did.

The correct treatment for that damage is a squeegee-applied filler/sealer, and this is one. It’s a sand-fortified, polymer-modified asphalt emulsion that you pour out and spread across the whole surface with a rubber squeegee or a brush. It bridges hairline cracks as a continuous membrane, restores the black, and the sand gives back skid resistance on a surface that has gone smooth and slick with age.

One unusual instruction worth noting: Jetcoat wants the pavement still damp when you apply. That’s the opposite of every cartridge product in this roundup, and it’s a genuine convenience — you can hose the driveway down, sweep the puddles out, and start working rather than waiting a day for it to bake dry. Two coats is the standard, with the second going on once the first is dry to the touch or within 24 hours. Allow a full 24 hours before driving on it.

Do the coverage math before you order, because this is where people get caught out. Jetcoat rates a pail at 250–350 square feet depending on how porous your pavement is — and that’s per coat. A proper two-coat job on a typical 600 sq ft driveway is four pails, not two. Measure your driveway and double it.

Two more things to be clear about. This is not a crack filler in the strict sense: it seals across fine cracks rather than filling individual ones, so anything wider than about 1/8 inch has to be filled with one of the products above and allowed to cure before you seal over it. And alligator cracking is a symptom of base failure — sealing buys you time and appearance, it does not fix the subgrade. If the pavement flexes underfoot or the alligatored patch grows every year, a sealer is a stopgap and replacement is the real answer.

Pros:

• The only product here that addresses hairline and alligator cracking
• Sand-fortified for skid resistance; restores a uniform black finish
• Applies to damp pavement — no waiting for the surface to dry out
• Covers a whole driveway rather than one crack at a time; water cleanup

Cons:

• 250–350 sq ft per pail is per coat — budget double for the recommended two coats
• Asphalt and blacktop only; manufacturer says do not use on concrete or masonry
• Not a filler for individual cracks — those must be filled and cured first
• Cosmetic and protective, not a structural fix for a failing base

8. Aquaphalt 6.0 Water-Activated Asphalt Patch

This is a patch, not a filler — a different category, and it’s here because the problem doesn’t always stay a crack. Once a crack has crumbled into a divot or opened into a pothole, none of the sealants above can do anything with it.

It’s water-activated: clean out the loose junk, place the material, wet it, tamp it down. It starts firming up immediately and the repaired area takes traffic right away while it finishes curing over about 24 hours. That’s a real advantage if you can’t block off a driveway for days. It’s also VOC-free, which makes it the easiest product here to use around kids and pets, and it can be placed year-round including in heat and freezing conditions — the widest application window of anything on this list.

The tradeoffs are texture and cost. Aquaphalt is chunky aggregate, so the finished surface is rougher than the asphalt around it — fine for function, less great for looks. And the volume-to-coverage math is humbling, because compaction eats material fast. For one or two spots it’s quick, clean, and done. For a driveway that looks like it survived an artillery barrage, price it against a paving crew first.

Pros:

• Water-activated — no chemicals, no special tools
• Takes traffic immediately after tamping
• Year-round application, including heat and freezing conditions
• Zero VOCs

Cons:

• Cost climbs steeply across multiple or large potholes
• Rough aggregate texture stands out against smooth pavement

How to Choose: Crack Types and Sizes

Before you buy anything, go out with a tape measure and a screwdriver and find out what you’re actually dealing with. Width and depth determine the product; everything else is secondary.

Under 1/8 inch (hairline). Nothing on this list will fill these individually, and the manufacturers say so — Sikaflex-410 has a stated minimum joint width of 1/4 inch, and the PLI-STIX rope is 1/4 inch thick before you stretch it. This is filler/sealer territory: a squeegee-applied coating like the Jetcoat Premium Driveway Sealer that bridges the cracking across the whole surface.

1/8 to 3/4 inch. The main event, and where most driveways live. The Jetcoat gallon is rated to 3/4 inch and is the cost-effective choice at any volume. The Sikaflex-410 and the PLI-STIX Small are the more durable choices for a smaller number of cracks.

3/4 to 1 inch. Past the Jetcoat’s rated width. The Sikaflex-410’s stated maximum is 1 inch, and the PLI-STIX Medium 1/2″ rope is designated for cracks 1/2″ to 1″. Both need backer rod or sand below 1/2 inch of depth.

Past 1 inch, or any actual hole. You’re patching, not filling. Aquaphalt.

Alligator cracking — interlocking cracks in a spiderweb or scale pattern — is its own category and doesn’t belong in the width scale at all. It signals that the base beneath the asphalt is failing, usually from water that got in through cracks you didn’t seal. A filler/sealer will make it look better and slow the water. It will not fix it. If it’s spreading year over year, budget for replacement of that section.

One piece of terminology worth knowing, because it explains why professional guidance can seem contradictory: the FHWA Manual of Practice for Crack Sealing distinguishes crack sealing (working cracks that open and close seasonally, treated with flexible hot- or cold-applied sealant) from crack filling (stable cracks, treated with cheaper material). Consumer products blur the two terms. On a residential driveway, assume your cracks are working cracks and choose something flexible.

Depth Matters as Much as Width

Anything deeper than 1/2 inch needs backer rod or clean sand in the bottom before you seal the top. This isn’t optional fussiness. Sika’s data sheet caps sealant depth at 1/2 inch and calls for closed-cell backer rod on any working joint, sized about 25% wider than the crack so it friction-fits. Without it you get three-sided adhesion — the sealant bonds to the bottom as well as both walls, and it tears itself apart the first time the crack moves. Pouring expensive sealant into a deep void also just wastes it. I’ve done that, and regretted it.

Surface Prep: The Step That Decides Everything

I’ve watched premium products fail because I rushed the prep, and cheap product last for years because I didn’t. Every manufacturer data sheet in this roundup says some version of the same thing: clean, sound, dry, frost-free. Here’s what that actually means on a Saturday morning.

1. Open the crack up. Sika’s own how-to guide says to widen the crack with a chisel and hammer to at least 1/4 inch. That sounds destructive and it feels wrong, but a sealant needs two clean sidewalls to grab. A crack chaser wheel on an angle grinder does this faster if you have one.
2. Get the debris out. Wire brush, then a leaf blower or shop vac. Loose material in the bottom of the crack is the single most common reason a repair lets go.
3. Kill the vegetation. If anything is growing in the crack, pull it and treat it. It will come back through your repair otherwise.
4. Let it dry. Rinsing is fine and often helps — the Crack-Stix instructions specifically recommend rinsing and drying for best results — but the surface must be dry before most products go down. Morning dew is enough to interfere with adhesion on the Sikaflex.
5. Check the forecast, not the thermometer. You want 24–48 hours of stable, dry weather after application regardless of what the label claims about rain-ready formulas.

Hot-Applied vs Cold-Applied

Hot-applied sealants are the professional standard, and the PLI-STIX is a consumer-scale version of that approach. Melting the thermoplastic against the crack walls produces a bond that cold-applied products don’t replicate. The relevant specifications here are AASHTO M 173 and M 301, and ASTM D6690 — all of which cover hot-applied pavement joint sealants.

Cold-applied products — the Jetcoat gallon, Sikaflex-410, Red Devil, and Liquid Rubber — are what most homeowners will actually use, and they’ve improved a great deal. The specification to look for on these is ASTM C920, the standard for elastomeric joint sealants; the PLI-STIX also carries a C920-11 rating. Don’t go hunting for M 173 on a caulk tube — it’s the wrong standard for the format, and you’ll conclude every product on the shelf is unrated.

Application Method Considerations

Pourable and self-leveling products work beautifully on flat ground and badly on anything else. Sika states outright that the 410 is not for sloped surfaces, and the same logic applies to the Liquid Rubber and the Jetcoat gallon. The Red Devil’s thicker consistency lets you tool it onto a grade, and the Magic Crack Filler’s dry granules sidestep the problem entirely. If your driveway has real slope, match the method to the location before you match it to the crack size.

Material Performance and Durability

Chemistry determines lifespan more than price does, and the products here fall into fairly clean tiers.

The PLI-STIX sits at the top: 100% solid thermoplastic rubber, no water to evaporate, no shrinkage, and a heat-fused bond to the crack walls. Dalton’s Shore A hardness of 50 and 1000% ultimate elongation are the numbers behind the lifetime guarantee. The Sikaflex-410’s hybrid formula stays permanently elastic within a documented ±25% movement capability and resists UV aging — solidly multi-year. Liquid Rubber’s 100% solids moisture-cure chemistry also won’t shrink, though its narrow width range limits where it applies.

Below that, the acrylic and emulsion products — Red Devil and both Jetcoat products — are maintenance items rated in the multi-year rather than permanent range; Jetcoat markets the sealer as five-year protection. That isn’t a criticism; it’s a different job. A gallon you reapply every third spring can easily be the better economic decision than a permanent repair you’ll spend a weekend installing.

The general rule holds across all of them: products that stay flexible in temperature extremes outlast rigid formulations, and that matters more on asphalt than concrete because blacktop absorbs more heat and sees bigger thermal swings. The FHWA’s SHRP Crack Treatment Experiment tracked sealing and filling materials across highway test sections and found substantial performance differences between materials used in the same conditions — the material you choose genuinely changes how long the repair lasts.

Weather and Temperature Requirements

Every product here has a temperature floor, and ignoring it is the fastest way to waste money.

• Aquaphalt 6.0: year-round, including freezing conditions
• Liquid Rubber: down to 32°F, tolerates damp
• PLI-STIX: 32°F and rising — the data sheet says do not apply below freezing, torch or no torch
• Sikaflex-410: 50–100°F, ambient and substrate
• Jetcoat gallon and sealer: no published range — treat as 50°F and rising, like any emulsion
• Red Devil, Magic Crack Filler: warm surfaces for best results

Too hot is a problem too. I sealed cracks during a heat wave once and the sealant was skinning over before I could tool it. And for the cold-pour emulsions, night temperature matters as much as day temperature. These products cure by evaporation, so a warm afternoon followed by a near-freezing night can leave you with material that never sets properly and tracks onto tires in the spring. Check the overnight low, not just the high.

Safety and Environmental Considerations

The PLI-STIX requires an open flame, so keep a fire extinguisher nearby, wear heat-resistant gloves and eye protection, and don’t melt filler near anything combustible. Dalton also notes the product carries a California Proposition 65 warning, so read the label.

The cold-applied products are safer to handle but still deserve respect: extended skin contact with sealants can irritate, and solvent-based formulas need ventilation. Sikaflex-410 cleans up with acetone, MEK, or xylene — all of which want fresh air and gloves. Aquaphalt stands out as the zero-VOC option, and both Jetcoat products clean up with soap and water — the gallon crack filler also carries no California Proposition 65 chemicals.

Disposal is straightforward once products are fully cured; most residential crack fillers can go in regular trash. Uncured liquid product may need hazardous waste handling depending on your area. Don’t pour leftovers down a storm drain.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does asphalt crack filler last?
It depends entirely on chemistry. Acrylic and emulsion products (Red Devil, the Jetcoat gallon) run a few years and are designed to be reapplied. Hybrid sealants like the Sikaflex-410 go longer. Heat-applied PLI-STIX is sold as permanent and carries a lifetime guarantee. Prep quality moves all of these numbers more than the product name does.

Can I sealcoat over crack filler?
Yes, but wait for the cure. Sikaflex-410 needs a minimum of 7 days before overcoating. PLI-STIX can be sealed over after 24 hours. Cold-pour gallon fillers generally want at least 24 hours and a top-up pass first, since they shrink.

Should I fill cracks or just sealcoat?
Both, in that order. Sealcoat is a surface membrane a few mils thick — it bridges hairline cracking but it will not fill a crack of any real width, and it will crack right along the line within a season if you skip the filling step. Fill first, cure, then seal.

What’s the difference between blacktop and asphalt crack filler?
Nothing. They’re regional names for the same material and the products are interchangeable.

Do I need to widen a crack before filling it?
For cartridge sealants, usually yes. Sika’s application guide calls for widening to at least 1/4 inch with a chisel so the sealant has two sound walls to bond to. For the pourable gallon fillers, cleaning is more important than widening.

The Bottom Line

If you’re not sure and you just want the thing that works: buy the Jetcoat Premium Elastomeric gallon, spend an hour on prep, and fill everything up to three quarters of an inch. It costs a small fraction per foot what the cartridges do, and for the overwhelming majority of driveways that’s the correct answer.

Upgrade from there only where it earns its keep. A few important cracks you don’t want to revisit — Sikaflex-410. A driveway you plan to keep for twenty years and a willingness to work with a torch — PLI-STIX. Fine surface cracking or alligatoring — Jetcoat Premium Driveway Sealer. An actual hole — Aquaphalt.

And whichever you pick: clean the crack properly, respect the temperature range on the label, and give it a dry weather window. That’s most of the outcome right there.